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brake axis affecting the steering...help please!

13 posts by 8 people · 29 Oct 2001 13:25 UTC - 30 Oct 2001 20:17 UTC

Rafe McAuliffe 29 Oct 2001 13:25 UTC#155531
Hey all. Lately I've been having some troubles with my wheel - a Saitek (ugghhh) R4 non FF running in split axis mode. In a standard serial joyport from my sblive. When I press the brake (z) axis, it will pull the wheel to the left slightly, only 5-10%. This happens with the Saitek drivers as well as a "3 axis joystick" setup. If I use the standard, combined axis mode then all is fine, but not when in split axis. So I guess I have some kind of interference between the brake and wheel wiring? This is very weird, since the accelerator has no effect, only the brake. Makes it bloody hard to brake in a straight line in GPL, that's for sure! If anyone has a suggestion for a fix, I'm all ears... BTW - T-bird 1ghz @1.4 ghz Iwill KK266 mobo, 256mb RAM, IBM 30gb hdd, sblive, Intel NIC, V3 3000 Rafe Mc
"Rafe McAuliffe" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
Quoted text (14 lines)> Hey all. Lately I've been having some troubles with my wheel - a > Saitek (ugghhh) R4 non FF running in split axis mode. In a standard > serial joyport from my sblive. > > When I press the brake (z) axis, it will pull the wheel to the left > slightly, only 5-10%. This happens with the Saitek drivers as well as > a "3 axis joystick" setup. If I use the standard, combined axis mode > then all is fine, but not when in split axis. > > So I guess I have some kind of interference between the brake and > wheel wiring? This is very weird, since the accelerator has no effect, > only the brake. Makes it bloody hard to brake in a straight line in > GPL, that's for sure! If anyone has a suggestion for a fix, I'm all > ears...
Mine did this after a few months of ownership - never could find the cause of the problem - took it back & exchanged for a TM wheel..... Given that our PC's are probably completely different in terms of hardware & config then I'd say you'd be reasonably safe blaming Saitek!
In Nascar 4 I'll bet? My cheapo joystick does this to, throttle the engine, and steering wheel moves full lock. I use to have this problem in GPL too but it disappeared. Nascar 3 - Legends, NFSHS & PU no problems. I've always thought the controller settings in the GPL engine were funky. -- R.I.P. - William Joseph Dunlop OBE MBE 2/25/52 - 7/2/2000 http://www.roadracers.uk.com/legend.htm
Rafe McAuliffe <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
Quoted text (10 lines)> When I press the brake (z) axis, it will pull the wheel to the left > slightly, only 5-10%. This happens with the Saitek drivers as well as > a "3 axis joystick" setup. If I use the standard, combined axis mode > then all is fine, but not when in split axis. > > So I guess I have some kind of interference between the brake and > wheel wiring? This is very weird, since the accelerator has no effect, > only the brake. Makes it bloody hard to brake in a straight line in > GPL, that's for sure! If anyone has a suggestion for a fix, I'm all > ears...
See also the "Act Labs Force RS problem." thread. Sounds similar... I'd love to know what the root cause is. Jonny
Rafe McAuliffe <[email hidden]> skrev i meldingsnyheter:[email hidden]...
Quoted text (10 lines)> Hey all. Lately I've been having some troubles with my wheel - a > Saitek (ugghhh) R4 non FF running in split axis mode. In a standard > serial joyport from my sblive. > > > BTW - T-bird 1ghz @1.4 ghz > Iwill KK266 mobo, 256mb RAM, > IBM 30gb hdd, sblive, Intel NIC, V3 3000 >
It might be your sound / gamecard. I (and even a friend of mine) had the same problem, and yes it was with a sblive card. Try another sound / gamecard. gl (-: Andreas
I don't know how far you can go with adjustment in your wheel, but I cured the same problem by changing the ranges in my pots. I noticed, while looking at an x-y grid, that the problem only arose at a certain value on the brake pedal, say between 112 and 123. I moved the pot so that the total brake travel was between 50 and 100 and the problem is bypassed in that manner. I also had some variance in the 30-40s. So I had to shorten my brake pedal travel to get the whole thing in between the glitches. I also have to install new pots with the grid running. Major pain, but better than pulling under braking or full throttle. ....did I mention that my gas pedal did the same, and when I changed either the gas or the brake it would in turn change the other... ...chased that sucker for two weeks.... ...keep notes... Hope that helps. "-) -- "Racing! - Science for the action minded." mark "Rafe McAuliffe" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]... > Hey all. Lately I've been having some troubles with my wheel - a > Saitek (ugghhh) R4 non FF running in split axis mode. In a standard > serial joyport from my sblive. > > When I press the brake (z) axis, it will pull the wheel to the left > slightly, only 5-10%. This happens with the Saitek drivers as well as > a "3 axis joystick" setup. If I use the standard, combined axis mode > then all is fine, but not when in split axis. > > So I guess I have some kind of interference between the brake and > wheel wiring? This is very weird, since the accelerator has no effect, > only the brake. Makes it bloody hard to brake in a straight line in > GPL, that's for sure! If anyone has a suggestion for a fix, I'm all > ears... > > BTW - T-bird 1ghz @1.4 ghz > Iwill KK266 mobo, 256mb RAM, > IBM 30gb hdd, sblive, Intel NIC, V3 3000 > > Rafe Mc
Thanks for the suggestions, this is one hell of a frustrating thing. Just spent the last two hours with a multimeter, trying to test it via the joyport pins, but I couldn't locate any axes or buttons! No problem if it was set to combines axes, I could measure the resistance no problem at standard pin-outs. But not in split axis. I'm guessing maybe Saitek use some funky pinout setup, but then this would screw with other games and windows controllers wouldn't work. So it's got me stuffed. Might try the sound card thing, but I haven't got many choices here :D I'll pinch my brother's sblive and see how we go. Even more frustrating is that I spent AGES changing the pots to special audio grade conductive plastic pots, supposed to be the bees knees. They work well, but now I struggle to keep the car on track under braking!!! GRRRRRRR! Rafe Mc On Mon, 29 Oct 2001 17:25:57 -0700, "mark jeangerard" <[email hidden]> wrote:
Quoted text (18 lines)>I don't know how far you can go with adjustment in your wheel, but I cured >the same problem by changing the ranges in my pots. I noticed, while looking >at an x-y grid, that the problem only arose at a certain value on the brake >pedal, say between 112 and 123. I moved the pot so that the total brake >travel was between 50 and 100 and the problem is bypassed in that manner. I >also had some variance in the 30-40s. So I had to shorten my brake pedal >travel to get the whole thing in between the glitches. I also have to >install new pots with the grid running. Major pain, but better than pulling >under braking or full throttle. > >....did I mention that my gas pedal did the same, and when I changed either >the gas or the brake it would in turn change the other... > >...chased that sucker for two weeks.... > >...keep notes... > >Hope that helps. "-)
Rafe, Might be mechanical. I had "brake creep" (for want of a better term) with my LWFF (early model). During long-ish races, particularly in SCGT, it was as if my engine was losing power. Finally, I discovered, in some game that had an on-screen indication of brake pedal effort, that the brakes were slowly coming on, eventually approaching abt. 50% effort. And I was thinking I musta dropped a valve! Anyway, I swapped out the mechanical unit (the wheel; left the pedals--a TSW conversion--the same), same Logi drivers, same OS, same pgms., etc., and all was well. Poke around inside, jiggle connections, etc. Use a multimeter (if you've got one) to measure resistance, etc. Might work; you never know. --Steve "Rafe McAuliffe" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
Quoted text (20 lines)> Hey all. Lately I've been having some troubles with my wheel - a > Saitek (ugghhh) R4 non FF running in split axis mode. In a standard > serial joyport from my sblive. > > When I press the brake (z) axis, it will pull the wheel to the left > slightly, only 5-10%. This happens with the Saitek drivers as well as > a "3 axis joystick" setup. If I use the standard, combined axis mode > then all is fine, but not when in split axis. > > So I guess I have some kind of interference between the brake and > wheel wiring? This is very weird, since the accelerator has no effect, > only the brake. Makes it bloody hard to brake in a straight line in > GPL, that's for sure! If anyone has a suggestion for a fix, I'm all > ears... > > BTW - T-bird 1ghz @1.4 ghz > Iwill KK266 mobo, 256mb RAM, > IBM 30gb hdd, sblive, Intel NIC, V3 3000 > > Rafe Mc
I would say in N4 they did this to reflect the engine torque. "Stephen Smith" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:8anD7.746154$[email hidden]... > Rafe, > > Might be mechanical. I had "brake creep" (for want of a better term) with > my LWFF (early model). During long-ish races, particularly in SCGT, itwas > as if my engine was losing power. Finally, I discovered, in some gamethat > had an on-screen indication of brake pedal effort, that the brakes were > slowly coming on, eventually approaching abt. 50% effort. And I was > thinking I musta dropped a valve! Anyway, I swapped out the mechanicalunit > (the wheel; left the pedals--a TSW conversion--the same), same Logidrivers,
Quoted text (30 lines)> same OS, same pgms., etc., and all was well. Poke around inside, jiggle > connections, etc. Use a multimeter (if you've got one) to measure > resistance, etc. Might work; you never know. > > --Steve > > "Rafe McAuliffe" <[email hidden]> wrote in message > news:[email hidden]... > > Hey all. Lately I've been having some troubles with my wheel - a > > Saitek (ugghhh) R4 non FF running in split axis mode. In a standard > > serial joyport from my sblive. > > > > When I press the brake (z) axis, it will pull the wheel to the left > > slightly, only 5-10%. This happens with the Saitek drivers as well as > > a "3 axis joystick" setup. If I use the standard, combined axis mode > > then all is fine, but not when in split axis. > > > > So I guess I have some kind of interference between the brake and > > wheel wiring? This is very weird, since the accelerator has no effect, > > only the brake. Makes it bloody hard to brake in a straight line in > > GPL, that's for sure! If anyone has a suggestion for a fix, I'm all > > ears... > > > > BTW - T-bird 1ghz @1.4 ghz > > Iwill KK266 mobo, 256mb RAM, > > IBM 30gb hdd, sblive, Intel NIC, V3 3000 > > > > Rafe Mc > >
I've actually been trying to test the wheel with a multimeter from the game port connector, frustrating as all hell. Thing slips about, trying to get two probes on the pins AND turn the wheel??? Talk about annoying :-P I know the pedal pots are 100% but not sure about the wheel, I'll have to check it out. The brakes and gas give the full travel (from what the MS game controller thingy tells me) but it also shows the steering moving with the brakes. This may take some time... Rafe Mc On Tue, 30 Oct 2001 01:14:44 GMT, "Stephen Smith" <[email hidden]> wrote:
Quoted text (38 lines)>Rafe, > >Might be mechanical. I had "brake creep" (for want of a better term) with >my LWFF (early model). During long-ish races, particularly in SCGT, it was >as if my engine was losing power. Finally, I discovered, in some game that >had an on-screen indication of brake pedal effort, that the brakes were >slowly coming on, eventually approaching abt. 50% effort. And I was >thinking I musta dropped a valve! Anyway, I swapped out the mechanical unit >(the wheel; left the pedals--a TSW conversion--the same), same Logi drivers, >same OS, same pgms., etc., and all was well. Poke around inside, jiggle >connections, etc. Use a multimeter (if you've got one) to measure >resistance, etc. Might work; you never know. > >--Steve > >"Rafe McAuliffe" <[email hidden]> wrote in message >news:[email hidden]... >> Hey all. Lately I've been having some troubles with my wheel - a >> Saitek (ugghhh) R4 non FF running in split axis mode. In a standard >> serial joyport from my sblive. >> >> When I press the brake (z) axis, it will pull the wheel to the left >> slightly, only 5-10%. This happens with the Saitek drivers as well as >> a "3 axis joystick" setup. If I use the standard, combined axis mode >> then all is fine, but not when in split axis. >> >> So I guess I have some kind of interference between the brake and >> wheel wiring? This is very weird, since the accelerator has no effect, >> only the brake. Makes it bloody hard to brake in a straight line in >> GPL, that's for sure! If anyone has a suggestion for a fix, I'm all >> ears... >> >> BTW - T-bird 1ghz @1.4 ghz >> Iwill KK266 mobo, 256mb RAM, >> IBM 30gb hdd, sblive, Intel NIC, V3 3000 >> >> Rafe Mc >
Forget the meter and get TMS.EXE. Thrustmaster Scope. If you can't find it out there I'd be happy to mail it to you. It's under 1 meg. -- "Racing! - Science for the action minded." mark "Rafe McAuliffe" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]... > Thanks for the suggestions, this is one hell of a frustrating thing. > Just spent the last two hours with a multimeter, trying to test it via > the joyport pins, but I couldn't locate any axes or buttons! No > problem if it was set to combines axes, I could measure the resistance > no problem at standard pin-outs. But not in split axis. I'm guessing > maybe Saitek use some funky pinout setup, but then this would screw > with other games and windows controllers wouldn't work. So it's got me > stuffed. > > Might try the sound card thing, but I haven't got many choices here :D > I'll pinch my brother's sblive and see how we go. > > Even more frustrating is that I spent AGES changing the pots to > special audio grade conductive plastic pots, supposed to be the bees > knees. They work well, but now I struggle to keep the car on track > under braking!!! GRRRRRRR! > > Rafe Mc > > > On Mon, 29 Oct 2001 17:25:57 -0700, "mark jeangerard" > <[email hidden]> wrote: > > >I don't know how far you can go with adjustment in your wheel, but I cured > >the same problem by changing the ranges in my pots. I noticed, while looking > >at an x-y grid, that the problem only arose at a certain value on the brake > >pedal, say between 112 and 123. I moved the pot so that the total brake > >travel was between 50 and 100 and the problem is bypassed in that manner. I > >also had some variance in the 30-40s. So I had to shorten my brake pedal > >travel to get the whole thing in between the glitches. I also have to > >install new pots with the grid running. Major pain, but better than pulling > >under braking or full throttle. > > > >....did I mention that my gas pedal did the same, and when I changed either > >the gas or the brake it would in turn change the other... > > > >...chased that sucker for two weeks.... > > > >...keep notes... > > > >Hope that helps. "-) >
Mark, I've done some searching but come up blank for your tms.exe. If you could email it to me that'd be great. (rafe AT optushome.com.au) (replace the AT) Thanks, Rafe Mc On Tue, 30 Oct 2001 00:40:26 -0700, "mark jeangerard" <[email hidden]> wrote: >Forget the meter and get TMS.EXE. Thrustmaster Scope. If you can't find it >out there I'd be happy to mail it to you. It's under 1 meg.
I figured so much. I hear TM has had problems of late, and TMS is an older util. On it's way, and I hope it helps. -- "Racing! - Science for the action minded." mark "Rafe McAuliffe" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]... > Mark, I've done some searching but come up blank for your tms.exe. If > you could email it to me that'd be great. (rafe AT optushome.com.au) > (replace the AT) > > Thanks, > > Rafe Mc > > > On Tue, 30 Oct 2001 00:40:26 -0700, "mark jeangerard" > <[email hidden]> wrote: > > >Forget the meter and get TMS.EXE. Thrustmaster Scope. If you can't find it > >out there I'd be happy to mail it to you. It's under 1 meg. >

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