Nascar questions?

Few questions, that weren't answered in manual (*** release): What's the difference between chassises? Do the engines have different performances (peak revs etc)? What about tires, from what I've read from rec.autos.sport.nascar, I'd quess Hoosier tires give better grip but do they wear out more quickly? Pasi.

: performances (peak revs etc)? What about tires, from what I've read : from rec.autos.sport.nascar, I'd quess Hoosier tires give better grip : but do they wear out more quickly? Oops, surprisingly the tire question was answered in subsection "Tyres";-) That's after re-reading the european manual. The chassis differences are still bit unclear. And one more confusing thing. Indycar manual says "underinflated tires tend to get more hot", Nascar manual says "over inflate a tire and it'll get too hot". Which one to believe? And some comments: - The manual is too compressed version of the original (176? pages to 18), but it looks like *** has chosen to produce multilingual versions of the games they distribute. Maybe they just don't believe Nascar would sell well in Europe. So one version is cheaper than n+1 versions in ICR style. I understand that, but if they want to keep their customers these kind of stunts are bit too risky. Wasn't *** selected as a "game publisher of the year" by one magazine? On what grounds, "largest amount of advertising space bought";-) - The wide angle mirrors are a great thing, finally a racing simulator where I can see what's happening on the sides. - AI looks good, these drivers actually seem to watch on their sides when they choose driving lines. Pasi.

I'm not sure myself, but I'll ask on the Papyrus BBS. Personally, I didn't find much difference between Chevy and Ford, but Pontiac seems to be slower. Must be a misprint in your NASCAR manual, because under-inflating causes higher temps (within reason) and overinflating causes lower temps (less contact patch). That sucks. The English/American manual is very good. +=================================================================+ | Robert Berryhill - Scarecrow from Wizard of Oz| | Plano, Tx or was that Congress? | +=================================================================+

The European manual also mentions steering help, but there doesn't appear to be any; I seem to remember the demo mentioning some, perhaps it was never added? Also, I found a neato `cheat' which I haven't seen mentioned yet; on the warmup lap (but NOT after a yellow flag), you can duck across to the line of cars adjacent to your grid position, and slot in behind the pace car. The message tell you to stay behind number XX, so you can slow down until he goes past, now on the opposite side of the track. Everyone else bunches up behind you, thus moving you halfway up the field. This is most useful if you qualify on the right of the field, so that you are now on the inside line into the corner. At Talladega (which is where I've been experimenting) this *** little technique allows you to get a big jump start on everyone. -- Gizmo -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- Launchpad is an experimental internet BBS. The views of its users do not necessarily represent those of UNC-Chapel Hill, OIT, or the SysOps. -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --

For those of you that own NASCAR on CD. From what I understand, the CD ROM NASCAR comes with both the hi and low-res. versions. Can you load the low-res. version on your hard disk so you can run the game without the CD? Why do I ask... I'm looking into buying the CD version of the NASCAR simulation even thought I do not have a "permanent" CD-ROM drive. The speed of my computer will allow me to play only the low-res. version; however, I plan to replace my computer in the near future. My new computer will have a fixed CD-ROM drive and will be fast enough to run the hi-res. version, so I don't want to buy the simulation twice. I am also looking at a steering wheel and pedal set that costs $150. This sounds like a lot but the salesman says the extra cost is justified because it comes with the Indycar simulation. Any suggestions? Thanks!

You can install the WHOLE thing onto your hard drive, if you have the space. -- **************************** Michael E. Carver ************************* Upside out, or inside down...False alarm the only game in town. =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=<[ /./. [- < ]>=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=

Yes, the CD allows you to load both the high-res and low-res versions onto your hard drive (despite what it says in the instalation manual). After that, you don't need the CD rom to be in the drive. -Steve ***************************************************************************** *****************************************************************************

: For those of you that own NASCAR on CD. From what I understand, the CD ROM : NASCAR comes with both the hi and low-res. versions. Can you load the : low-res. version on your hard disk so you can run the game without the CD? Yes. That's what I had to do, for high res., since I don't have a CD Rom. High res. is enabled with an -h switch, not separate installations. It takes 5 floppies, for a zip backup. : I am also looking at a steering wheel and pedal set that costs $150. This :sounds like a lot but the salesman says the extra cost is justified because it : comes with the Indycar simulation. Any suggestions? Not bad-I didn't find them packaged together. The CD-Rom cost me $52 and $40 for an IBM flight yolk/steering wheel. I can always get rudder pedals, but wont have the stick shift. Bob/NYC -- American Presidents, who jog-don't get re-elected: Carter/Bush/Clinton? Roosevelt 4 terms, Reagan/Nixon/Ike/Truman 2 terms. I rest my case!

>For those of you that own NASCAR on CD. From what I understand, the CD ROM >NASCAR comes with both the hi and low-res. versions. Can you load the >low-res. version on your hard disk so you can run the game without the CD? Yes, you can. Loading both versions onto your hard drive takes up about 15 megs. or so.... then, to play the VGA version you type "nascar", to play the SVGA version you type "nascar -h"... I assume you're talking about the Thrustmaster T1? I've heard mentions here of people buying the T1 by itself for $110... I don't know, though - I've got a Simulation Systems ACP on order, it looks like a much higher quality unit (but of course costs a bit more too - $180....) _-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_

Don't know what the salesman was referring to unless it was the T-1 from Thrustmaster. It sits on a desk top and has foot pedals. Some people like it alot. The gear shift is part of the desk top unit. I have and like the Auto Racing***pit from Simulation Systems. It is metal and is freestanding. It is set up like a Mclaren F1 with the gear shift on the underside of the steering wheel. This unit retails for $180. IHMO it is worth it. Let me know if you want further information. Jack : I am also looking at a steering wheel and pedal set that costs $150. This : sounds like a lot but the salesman says the extra cost is justified because it : comes with the Indycar simulation. Any suggestions? : Thanks! -- (Moderators for "rec.autos.sport.info") Homepage [link lost in import: /:81/users/indy500/index.html]

I have a T1. It works pretty well, but maybe I'm just harder on it than other folks. I've already broken two pedal tensioner springs - nothing new, lots of of them break. Thrustmaster replaced them *pronto* (I emailed on Sunday, they arrived on Wednesday). But I'm now having a bit of problem with the wheel getting some extra play in it - nothing serious yet, but this wheel is just 4 months old. I'm also having a bit of trouble with the shifter. Occasionally it will shift TWICE - this is a disaster if you are in 5th and meaning to hit 4th, but instead you get 3rd which is 2500 rpms down... (Engine goes BANG in a hurry!) I'm very sure that Thrustmaster will replace whatever bits are wrong, but it's an aggravation to me that I don't need from my toys... So how much are these ACPs? I see it retails for $180, but do they mail order places carry them? (ie Chips&Bits maybe?) -- Brian Wong Product Marketing Engineering 415-336-0082 Palo Alto, CA 94303

Thanks to everyone that answered. I can't wait 'till Christmas morning! As for the Thrushmaster T1, I'll wait untill after the holiday and see if I can get it cheaper through the mail. If anyone has any number for catalogs, I'd appreciate them! :) Thanks again. Barkley...

Why not just order one direct from Simulation Systems? That way you get the $180 price (well, plus $15 S+H....). On the advice of Mr. Durbin and others I placed an order for mine a couple of weeks ago. It appears to me to be a much higher quality unit than the T1, and I really like the looks of the shifting mechanism better than that of the T1. Mine should be here any day now - I can't wait, I'm tired of playing my favorite games (ICR, NASCAR, and WC of course ;-) ) with a joystick! Simulation Systems' number is: 1-800-647-7623 _-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_

I had trouble with my T1 steering wheel... at first I thought it was cuz I had a newer/faster computer and needed to upgrade my game card. But before I rushed out to spend money, I opened the cover of the T1 steering wheel and sprayed some tuner/switch cleaner on the pot's contacts. Worked like a charm!!! Now have good clean/tight steering again. As for the foot pedal springs. But a block of wood behind the pedals to shorten the travel distance. It's sorta like Spinal Tap, if you have "11" you will always need to crank it to "11" -- so just take away a few notches and only crank it to "9"!!!! -- **************************** Michael E. Carver ************************* Upside out, or inside down...False alarm the only game in town. =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=<[ /./. [- < ]>=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=

I *did* limit the travel on the pdeals. I put a "3/4" inch block of wood on the "front porch", which is what others have done. I even put a brass strip on the top of it to prevent me from mashing the pedal INTO the wood. It still broke. Fortunately I have a lot of replacement springs now :-( Note that doing this doesn't make you go slower, since you recalibrate with the new limits. -- Brian Wong Product Marketing Engineering 415-336-0082 Palo Alto, CA 94303

>I even put >a brass strip on the top of it to prevent me from mashing the pedal >INTO the wood. It still broke. Brian: Now THAT'S enthusiastic driving... Was that brakes or gas? :)) | )/-\(_)|__

Um, er...Chips and bits carries the ACP for $159 last time I checked. Their numbers are: 800-699-4263 US 802-767-3003 outside of US

Ouch - well, too bad I didn't find that out before ordering, eh? Oh well, live and learn.... $21 down the drain, that's all.... :-) -Brad Traweek