momo settings help needed

got a new black momo and have been toolong around with it but cant seem to get it right driving wise. hoping some of you could let me know your calibration settings so i could compare and possibly see where i am wrong and what may help. looking for settings of directinput or generic (have mine on directinput) ****force feedback strength % damping % latency % ****advanced settings input momentum steering % throttle % (really bad on restarts- does this help that???) brake % steering assistance % steering linearity % boost steering at low speeds yes or no??? thanks to all that help don

[email hidden] (COWBOYSFN9) wrote in news:[email hidden]:

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> got a new black momo and have been toolong around with it but cant > seem to get it right driving wise. hoping some of you could let me > know your calibration settings so i could compare and possibly see > where i am wrong and what may help. looking for settings of > > directinput or generic (have mine on directinput) > > ****force feedback > strength % > damping % > latency % > > ****advanced settings > input momentum > steering % > throttle % (really bad on restarts- does this help that???) > brake % > > steering assistance % > steering linearity % > > boost steering at low speeds yes or no??? > > thanks to all that help don > >

You have to think in two different ways with the Momo. The top half of your settings are fairly simple. the higher the number, the stronger the effects. So depending on your preference, you'll be choosing a number near 100% for strong FF effects or much lower for a lighter feel. But the steering and the pedals work with a different scale. If you choose the 50% setting, you'd think you are only getting half the steering...but that's wrong. 50 is what is called 'Full Linear." That is when your wheel's movement matches the inputs sent to the game. If you drop the setting below 50% then the wheel reacts slower to your initial movement but faster as you reach the end of the wheels range of movement. If you make the setting higher than 50%, then the wheel leaps to your command for the first part of it's arc and then goes flat as your continue moving the wheel. So you start in the middle and decide if you like understeer or oversteer built into your wheel. Set all that up in first the windows controller aplet an also in the Logitech profiler. Then go ingame..(it looks like you are referring to Nascar Racing 2003 correct?) About the only

Dave Henrie <[email hidden]> wrote in news:[email hidden]: > [email hidden] ( > About the only > Sorry the CAT jumped up on my keyboard and sent the message unfinished. The basics of the ingame stuff is use DIRECT Input cuz that is what you need for the FF to be recognized by windows.(which you are doing) Put the linear slider as near to 100% as you can stand and then aske somebody who knows what the heck the advanced section pertains too... :) dave henrie

thanks dave............advanced settings anyone?????

"COWBOYSFN9" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]... > thanks dave............advanced settings anyone????? The following are not my tips. I actually copied and pasted them to a text file from a post in RAS a while back. I use them and they work for me, apologies to the original author for not naming him but I have no idea who he is: "For the MOMO people, do this. Start/Settings/Control Panel/Game Controllers. Then.. Double Left Click on the MOMO, then click the Settings button (bottom right). Then set these options... Combined - unticked (ie: no checkmark) [this allows your brake and gas pedals to be on a separate axis, which is important to have] Enable Force Feedback - ticked (ie: checkmark it) [this allows force feedback in games duh] Overall Effects Strength - 97% [the reason for 97% and NOT 100% is a long and complicated explanation, but in short it helps oscillations from happening] Spring Effects Strength - 0% [no Papyrus sims use this setting and oddly enough, if you set it to anything other than 0% you will get undesirable effects] Damper Effects Strength - 0% [very VERY important to set this to 0%, this is probably THE most important setting, as it will greatly increase notchiness and wheel twitches, even though the Papyrus sims do not exactly enable it] Enable Centering Spring - ticked [you are going to find this strange, because in the next setting I tell you to set it to 0%, which is odd because why not just untick it? well, there's a reason and here it is... if you don't tick this option and also don't have Damping set -which if your going with these settings you won't- then a strange phenomenon happens, you will find that if you turn your wheel rather sharply, the resistance of the wheel just "gives out" which is not something you want to happen. I will also admit that having this unchecked does appear to give slightly better forces -SLIGHTLY- but the repercussions just aren't worth it for the payoff. so in the end check this option] Centering Spring Strength - 0% [this is IMPORTANT! i know it's weird, but you must set it to 0% - read above option for better explanation] Then in your Logitech Wingman Profiler, create a Nascar 2003 profile and then set these settings as follows... Steering Wheel Sensitivity to 33% [the reason you want to go down from the default 50% to 33% is because at 50% the wheel is too sensitive to tiny wheel adjustments... which is not realistic. drive your car and notice how far you have to turn your wheel... the MOMO have a large radius to turn, it's a shame most people only move it 5 degrees to either side. this setting should allow more precise driving and overall smoothness as well - and you can go down even lower if you wish, to say, 25% if you want to have even more movement, but i suggest 33% for starters at least, get used to that and go more later if you like the effect] Steering Wheel Dead Zone - 2% [another long explanation would be needed and I don't feel like telling, but in short this also helps oscillations and twitchiness] Accelerator Sensitivity - 55% [strangely, this option is the exact opposite of the Steering, INCREASING this option from the default 50% to 55% makes the gas less sensitive to the immediate input, in other words, you have to push down farther before the car gets more power. the default 50% is a little touchy - when you barely touch the pedal the car can spin out. 55% helps this from happening and overall gives a more natural and fine tune approach] Accelerator Dead Zone - 2% [much the same reasoning as above, this helps from keeping your car getting to much gas too fast] Brake Sensitivity - 55% [exact same reasons as accelerator, increasing this to 55% helps your brakes from locking up to fast. one word of note though is that I have modified my brake pedal to include the squash ball instead of the spring, so that may make a difference in your setup. just note that increasing this gives less immediate braking and can help if your tires are locking up too easily under braking] Brake Dead Zone - 2% [same reasons as all the others dead zones] Now, in Nascar 2003, enable the Force Feedback option under the Controls tab and you should run this setting in between 35-65 (50 being most common setting) depending on the track and more importantly, on your setup for that track. I know this is a pain to have to do at each individual track, but depending on your setup you will need to adjust the strength of the forces in game between each track change. Just start out from 50 and work from there. the key to adjusting strength is this... if the wheel has a "notchy" feel, lower the setting till it JUST goes away, if it doesn't have a notchy feel, then raise it till you feel the notchyness and then lower it till it just goes away again. In essence giving you the most forces while remaining smooth. Leave Damping completely off in game... but *IF* and only if you are oscillating exiting a corner on the straight, then you can slightly and slowly increase it in game till you stop oscillating, but I doubt many of you will have oscillation problems because the settings we set up earlier should rid you of any. This is the only good thing Damping is good for, so try not to use it unless you have to because it hurts your performance elsewhere. and again, NEVER EVER EVER use the Damping setting in windows, the one found in the control panel... and only use the in-game damping if you absolutely must (as this can mask the real forces and it also increases notchiness by a factor of 3 fold). Leave latency off in game (0%). It only provides fake and incorrect forces at usually the wrong time anyways and can definitely get in the way of things and effect the overall impressions of the wheel with the rest of these settings described here. if you honestly feel like forces are literally coming too late (which I find very hard to believe) and you feel like you absolutely have to add to this setting, go ahead and increase it... with 25 being your absolute max (15 the preferred max) and 0% being the optimal."

Awesome, Needs to be added to the USpits or something as a FAQ! Joao Gonzalez wrote:

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> "COWBOYSFN9" <[email hidden]> wrote in message > news:[email hidden]... >> thanks dave............advanced settings anyone????? > > The following are not my tips. I actually copied and pasted them to a > text file from a post in RAS a while back. I use them and they work > for me, apologies to the original author for not naming him but I > have no idea who he is: > > "For the MOMO people, do this. > > Start/Settings/Control Panel/Game Controllers. > > Then.. > > Double Left Click on the MOMO, then click the Settings button (bottom > right). > > Then set these options... > > Combined - unticked (ie: no checkmark) [this allows your brake and gas > pedals to be on a separate axis, which is important to have] > > Enable Force Feedback - ticked (ie: checkmark it) [this allows force > feedback in games duh] > > Overall Effects Strength - 97% [the reason for 97% and NOT 100% is a > long and complicated explanation, but in short it helps oscillations > from happening] > > Spring Effects Strength - 0% [no Papyrus sims use this setting and > oddly enough, if you set it to anything other than 0% you will get > undesirable effects] > > Damper Effects Strength - 0% [very VERY important to set this to 0%, > this is probably THE most important setting, as it will greatly > increase notchiness and wheel twitches, even though the Papyrus sims > do not exactly enable it] > > Enable Centering Spring - ticked [you are going to find this strange, > because in the next setting I tell you to set it to 0%, which is odd > because why not just untick it? well, there's a reason and here it > is... if you don't tick this option and also don't have Damping set > -which if your going with these settings you won't- then a strange > phenomenon happens, you will find that if you turn your wheel rather > sharply, the resistance of the wheel just "gives out" which is not > something you want to happen. I will also admit that having this > unchecked does appear to give slightly better > forces -SLIGHTLY- but the repercussions just aren't worth it for the > payoff. so in the end check this option] > > Centering Spring Strength - 0% [this is IMPORTANT! i know it's weird, > but you must set it to 0% - read above option for better explanation] > > Then in your Logitech Wingman Profiler, create a Nascar 2003 profile > and then set these settings as follows... > > Steering Wheel Sensitivity to 33% [the reason you want to go down > from the default 50% to 33% is because at 50% the wheel is too > sensitive to tiny wheel adjustments... which is not realistic. drive > your car and notice how far you have to turn your wheel... the MOMO > have a large radius to turn, it's a shame most people only move it 5 > degrees to either side. this setting should allow more precise > driving and overall smoothness as well - and you can go down even > lower if you wish, to say, 25% if you want to have even more > movement, but i suggest 33% for starters at least, get used to that > and go more later if you like the effect] > > Steering Wheel Dead Zone - 2% [another long explanation would be > needed and I don't feel like telling, but in short this also helps > oscillations and twitchiness] > > Accelerator Sensitivity - 55% [strangely, this option is the exact > opposite of the Steering, INCREASING this option from the default 50% > to 55% makes the gas less sensitive to the immediate input, in other > words, you have to push down farther before the car gets more power. > the default 50% is a little touchy - when you barely touch the pedal > the car can spin out. 55% helps this from happening and overall gives > a more natural and fine tune approach] > > Accelerator Dead Zone - 2% [much the same reasoning as above, this > helps from keeping your car getting to much gas too fast] > > Brake Sensitivity - 55% [exact same reasons as accelerator, > increasing this to 55% helps your brakes from locking up to fast. one > word of note though is that I have modified my brake pedal to include > the squash ball instead of the spring, so that may make a difference > in your setup. just note that increasing this gives less immediate > braking and can help if your tires are locking up too easily under > braking] > > Brake Dead Zone - 2% [same reasons as all the others dead zones] > > Now, in Nascar 2003, enable the Force Feedback option under the > Controls tab and you should run this setting in between 35-65 (50 > being most common setting) depending on the track and more > importantly, on your setup for that track. I know this is a pain to > have to do at each individual track, but depending on your setup you > will need to adjust the strength of the forces in game between each > track change. > > Just start out from 50 and work from there. the key to adjusting > strength is this... if the wheel has a "notchy" feel, lower the > setting till it JUST goes away, if it doesn't have a notchy feel, > then raise it till you feel the notchyness and then lower it till it > just goes away again. In essence giving you the most forces while > remaining smooth. > > Leave Damping completely off in game... but *IF* and only if you are > oscillating exiting a corner on the straight, then you can slightly > and slowly increase it in game till you stop oscillating, but I doubt > many of you will have oscillation problems because the settings we > set up earlier should rid you of any. This is the only good thing > Damping is good for, so try not to use it unless you have to because > it hurts your performance elsewhere. and again, NEVER EVER EVER use > the Damping setting in windows, the one found in the control panel... > and only use the in-game damping if you absolutely must (as this can > mask the real forces and it also increases notchiness by a factor of > 3 fold). > > Leave latency off in game (0%). It only provides fake and incorrect > forces at usually the wrong time anyways and can definitely get in > the way of things and effect the overall impressions of the wheel > with the rest of these settings described here. if you honestly feel > like forces are literally coming too late (which I find very hard to > believe) and you feel like you absolutely have to add to this > setting, go ahead and increase it... with 25 being your absolute max > (15 the preferred max) and 0% being the optimal."