GP2 braking

How are you guys setting up your brakes in GP2. I am using a T2 control and have the brakes set for analog. They just don't seem to have any "FEEL" and lock up when I go into corners. This wasn't as annoying in ICR2 since the braking wasn't as realistic as it is in GP2. Someone needs to come out with a set of pedals in which the brakes are pressure sensative as opposed to a linier device, as is the case with the current units since the use a potentiometer for output. They just don't seem real. Any suggestion as to setups would be greatly appreciated. Thanx in advance and happy motoring John E. Crouse

I have greatly improved my braking (and accelerating) with my T2 by firstly removing any low sensitivity zone, then when I calibrate in the Y axis I get full travel for brakes and about two thirds travel for accelerator. Having full travel in braking is vital to avoid locking up on every corner and chewing you tires. BTW, once having made the changes, load a hotlap and plot accel and brake: you'll see how you are now braking more smoothly and going more slowly to 100% brakes. Hope this helps, john stuart cape town, rsa

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> How are you guys setting up your brakes in GP2. I am using a T2 control and > have the brakes set for analog. They just don't seem to have any "FEEL" and > lock up when I go into corners. This wasn't as annoying in ICR2 since the > braking wasn't as realistic as it is in GP2. Someone needs to come out with > a set of pedals in which the brakes are pressure sensative as opposed to a > linier device, as is the case with the current units since the use a > potentiometer for output. They just don't seem real. Any suggestion as to > setups would be greatly appreciated.

Huh... I noticed that my T2 seemed to allow me to brake much later going into corners. I htought the feeling of braking was fantastic. This is in both GP2 & ICR2. > Thanx in advance and happy motoring > John E. Crouse

The trick is to brake hard to begin with, but to ease off the brake as the car slows down. On some corners it is really difficult to avoid locking the wheels, but if you do this most of the time you'll manage it. *************************************************************************** * Time is an illusion, lunchtime doubly so... * Glenn Davies * ***************************************************************************

Hi John, With regards to GP2 braking ... At high speeds F1 cars are subject to a lot of downforce. As much as four times the weight of the car I've read. Therefore at high speeds the tyres are pressed hard against the track surface and thereby enjoy much improved traction. In this high-speed, high-downforce, high-traction mode you can jump on the brakes full force without loosing traction or locking up the wheels. But as the car slows, and it slows very fast, it looses speed, and therefore looses downforce, and therefore looses traction. If you maintain the full brake effort while the car is thus slowing you'll reach a point where its reduced traction can no longer withstand the braking force. The wheels then lock up. Locked up front wheels cause you to loose the ability to steer. Locked up rear wheels will usually cause the back end to slip out. The braking method in GP2 is more of a process than it was in GP1, and IMHO cleverly reflects real-life. As you first brake from high speed you can apply full braking effort. As the car slows you have to progressively release the brake to avoid wheel lock up. Towards the end of the braking process you may actually be applying very little brake effort indeed. Braking from an already slow initial speed to an even slower speed may require that you never apply full braking in order to avoid wheel lock up. In either case, if you do lock up the wheels before youve slowed the car enough, dont just keep the brakes full on. Momentarily lift your foot off the brakes to restore steering control and then gently reapply with carefully measured force. Because this kind of braking profile requires some degree of sensitivity you may find that you need to increase the Low sensitivity zone setting for the brake device in the Advanced Control Method screen. In fact for my T2 peddles I set this to 95%. ( While your at it you might like to also likewise increase the Low sensitivity zone for the accelerator device. GP2 punishes you severely for applying too much power too quickly coming out of a corner. ) Carefully measured application of the brakes, and accelerator, in conjunction with extended Low sensitivity zones, will go a long way to help avoid brake induced wheel lock-ups and over acceleration spin-outs. Hope this helps. Best Regards Phillip

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> How are you guys setting up your brakes in GP2. I am using a T2 control and > have the brakes set for analog. They just don't seem to have any "FEEL" and > lock up when I go into corners. This wasn't as annoying in ICR2 since the > braking wasn't as realistic as it is in GP2. Someone needs to come out with > a set of pedals in which the brakes are pressure sensative as opposed to a > linier device, as is the case with the current units since the use a > potentiometer for output. They just don't seem real. Any suggestion as to > setups would be greatly appreciated. > Thanx in advance and happy motoring > John E. Crouse

Phillip McNelley's article describes braking in GP2 very well. I agree with what he says, so won't repeat it all here! FWIW, my 2 pennies... I'm using CH Pro pedals which are, like you distinguish, annoying in that their resistance to pressure is rather light and linear. This causes problems with over- braking. As Phillip points out, braking from high speeds is a foot-to-the-floor affair but slow speeds require lifting off, or (easier but less controlled) dabbing on and off the brakes. If all else fails I'm sure some sort of block behind the pedals (as a 'stop') would do, but you'd have to brake earlier from high speeds! Cheers, Dan

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> FWIW, my 2 pennies... > I'm using CH Pro pedals which are, like you distinguish, annoying in that their > resistance to pressure is rather light and linear. This causes problems with over- > braking. As Phillip points out, braking from high speeds is a foot-to-the-floor > affair but slow speeds require lifting off, or (easier but less controlled) dabbing > on and off the brakes. > If all else fails I'm sure some sort of block behind the pedals (as a 'stop') would > do, but you'd have to brake earlier from high speeds! > Cheers, > Dan

Here's .02 more - I used to have the same problem. I was using 0% low sensitivity zone on brakes and gas. I switched to 100% low sensitivity on both, and hated it at first. You can still get full pedal, but it is progressive. But, it makes small brake and gas inputs much easier. When you are braking at the end of a high-speed straight to a hairpin, easing off the brake as the car slows is more controllable. As is acelerating 1st or 2nd without breaking the rear tires loose. Give yourself time to get used to it, and you will probably like it better. -- "Feel Lucky, Scubaboy?" - Discovery Channel, Shark Week, 1995