I've been playing the demo, and experimenting with different control
setups. Surprisingly, so far I've had better luck with a joystick than
my T2.
When I'm using the T2, it doesn't seem like there is any null zone
with the wheel centered.
It is difficult for me to keep the car in a straight line.
I'm constantly making minor corrections, often leading to
overcorrection. It makes it difficult to set up for the corners.
Anyone else experiencing this?
I tried a bunch of different variations for the speed and linear
steering sensitivity. It seems like the speed sensitivity should tune
this out, but it doesn't for me.
I actually thought my T2 might have been acting up, but I tried N2 and
GP2, and they're both fine.
--
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I've noticed this also with my GP1 wheel. I've tried everything. Right
now I'm using halfway with the settings. I also have to drive slow to
keep from overcorrecting.
--
Busch Carpentry
Plans? We don't need no stinking plans
Busch Motorsports
Remember, racecar is racecar spelled backward
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<HTML>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE>
<PRE>I've been playing the demo, and experimenting with different control
setups. Surprisingly, so far I've had better luck with a joystick than
my T2.
When I'm using the T2, it doesn't seem like there is any null zone
with the wheel centered.
It is difficult for me to keep the car in a straight line.
I'm constantly making minor corrections, often leading to
overcorrection. It makes it difficult to set up for the corners.
Anyone else experiencing this?
I tried a bunch of different variations for the speed and linear
steering sensitivity. It seems like the speed sensitivity should tune
this out, but it doesn't for me.
I actually thought my T2 might have been acting up, but I tried N2 and
GP2, and they're both fine.</PRE>
</BLOCKQUOTE>
I've noticed this also with my GP1 wheel. I've tried everything. Right
now I'm using halfway with the settings. I also have to drive slow
to keep from overcorrecting.
<P>--
<BR>Busch Carpentry
<BR>Plans? We don't need no stinking plans
<BR>Busch Motorsports
<BR>Remember, racecar is racecar spelled backward
<BR> </HTML>
--------------80F145A861A1A28BF4EA367E--
Same with my GP1
Ditto
It's the game, I can't seem to get the hang of the very twitchy, over
sensitive steering...Time to buy a TSW?
Ack thippt.....
Quoted text (10 lines)
>I had the same problem with a T2. I was able to drive, but I found the car >to be hard to control. I bought a Nascar wheel (ie T3) and the problem went >away. I took my T2 apart and found that the bungee cord was pretty stretched >out, leaving a big dead zone in the center. >BTW the T3 immediately whacked a couple of seconds off my laptimes. >Cheers, >John (CART Team)% >I had the same problem with a T2. I was able to drive, but I found the car
% >to be hard to control. I bought a Nascar wheel (ie T3) and the problem went
% >away. I took my T2 apart and found that the bungee cord was pretty stretched
% >out, leaving a big dead zone in the center.
% >
% >BTW the T3 immediately whacked a couple of seconds off my laptimes.
% >
% >Cheers,
% >
% >John (CART Team)
% I have noticed that when I calibrate the T2 in Win95 (using the Contol Panel
% "game controller" icon, or whatever it's now called with DX5), when the
% steering wheel is still, the little crosshair in the white box is jittering
% around somewhat (noticeably visible, yet not too much movement). Could this
% be a "stretched bungee" problem or dirty pots? And, would this be causing CPR
% to run erratic when the wheel is set straight (like so many people have
% complained about). Because, I cannot yet get it to run without twitching
% everywhere (and I've tried all the "non-linear" suggestions, etc).
% I haven't noticed any problems with calibrating N2, GP2, or ICR2 (all in DOS).
Have you tried Thrustmaster's ProPanel applet? I am not positive about
the game controller applet that comes with DX5 is as fine-tuned as the
ProPanel. I know they "operate" in a similar manner and allow for
similar options. But I know for a fact that the ProPanel has been
fine-tuned to allow for better calibrations with pots similar to those
found in the T1/T2 and GP1 wheels. It's worth a try.
If you don't notice this "jittering" in the calibration in DOS programs,
it is more than likely a problem with the game controller applet in
Win95. But, if you do see it in DOS calibrations it is more likely a
dirty pot.
ProPanel can be found at: ftp://208.129.210.78/pub/library/propanel.exe
--
**************************** Michael E. Carver *************************
Upside out, or inside down...False alarm the only game in town.
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=<[ /./. [- < ]>=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
If you are having problems with Steering control for CART Precision Racing
go to The APEX http://www.quiknet.com/~joja/ There are several instructions
on how to improve the steering feel of the game especially using a wheel. In
addition there are several setups available for download that will greatly
enhance the feel and speed of your car.
Thanks
John
Quoted text (13 lines)
>>When I'm using the T2, it doesn't seem like there is any null zone >>with the wheel centered. >>It is difficult for me to keep the car in a straight line. >>I'm constantly making minor corrections, often leading to >>overcorrection. It makes it difficult to set up for the corners. >>Anyone else experiencing this? >Sort of like Test Drive - Offroad? >Man does that product have a steering problem! >-- >Best Wishes!!! >Robert Huggins >Raleigh, NCWhy do get the sneaking feeling that MS/CPR went to Thrustmaster (200k
pots + card) for advice about racecar controllers.....! I use mil spec
100k pots (standard j/stick values) in my custom built (GP1) wheel and
pedals.....I configure GP2, IndyII and Nascar with no problems......CART
will not evan recognise my controller....unless I use the Thustmaster
option in the configure menu list. This of course will not calibrate
correctly because it is expecting 200k pots.....I have heard a trick is
to put a 50k resistor in series with the Joystick one 'Y axis', but this
is just a cop-out for lousy programming! I will persevere......will
report back after fitting the 50k resistor.
Dave Hawnt (UK)
> **************************** Michael E. Carver
> *************************
> Upside out, or inside down...False alarm the only game in town.
> =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=<[ /./. [- <
> ]>=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=


































