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Dirty Pot Symptoms? Best Cleaner?

11 posts by 9 people · 24 Jan 1999 - 11 Feb 1999

Otto Mathek 24 Jan 1999#446930
My GP1 seems a little vague near to center and the pointer jumps around a little with wheel centered while calibrating. Is this wear or a dirty pot? If a dirty pot, is automotive spray circuit board contact cleaner ok to use or will it harm the pot. Is canned air a better alternative? TIA -- Otto Matheke "Mandrake, have you ever seen a commie drink a glass of water?"
Morta 24 Jan 1999#446931
On Sun, 24 Jan 1999 10:33:30 -0500, Otto Matheke >My GP1 seems a little vague near to center and the pointer jumps around >a little with wheel centered while calibrating. Is this wear or a dirty >pot? If a dirty pot, is automotive spray circuit board contact cleaner >ok to use or will it harm the pot. Is canned air a better alternative? >TIA That very well could be a dirty pot. My T-2 was doing the same thing until I leaned the pot. My cleaner of choice is Tuner Control Cleaner and Lubricant from Radio Sack (Cat No. 64-4315) It works great for my T2, but I originally purchased it for the knobs on my Marshall amplifier. Cheers, Chris "How can you run from a dead person, unless you're dead yourself?" -Venus in Furs --Horrornews--Horrorchat--Reviews--General filth-- Mortado's Page of Filth http://www.nwlink.com/~mortado/
Keith Dye 24 Jan 1999#446932
Contact Thrustmaster - they sent me replacements in the post the next day!
Schlomo4 25 Jan 1999#447089
Any kind of spray cleaner for electronics SHOULD be ok but dont blame me if you try something and it messes it up. I personally use a product called "Big Bath". I cant remember the company that makes it though. If you can find it "Blue Lightning" (or is it thunder) would work great and definately wont harm it. Ive sprayed that stuff directly onto a circuit board to clean dust off of it and it didnt do a thing except what i used it for...cleaning the board. However its an older product and im not sure if they make it anymore.
Almost everyone will tell you that it is the pot, and chances are that it IS the pot. There is a chance however that the wheel assembly is moving on the shaft. The***that Thrustmaster provides with the wheel is not too great. When you take the cover off to clean the pot try holding the shaft and see if you can wriggle the wheel on the shaft. Remember I am still talking about the GP1. If the wheel moves then you may want to put in a larger diameter self tapping screw. Regards Emiliano
atschoo 28 Jan 1999#447668
symptoms? usually coughing or worse a donkey. cleaner? try a waterpipe, or a better dealer. sorry couldn't help it.
Larry 09 Feb 1999#449387
Not that great? It sucks pig poop... It angers me because I have been writing them forever for a replacement, and begged them to change to a three-screw design. Any engineer knows that you don't attach two circular parts with ONE screw. You always use 3 in a tri-pod arrangement... -Larry > The***that Thrustmaster provides with the wheel is not too great.
Phil Hobb 10 Feb 1999#449567
Great stuff mate , thanks. I've just added "Bachelor of Engineering" to my resume....|o) -- #33 Zandvoort 1.28.56
John Bradl 10 Feb 1999#449568
Actually, I modified my TM2 to have a second***holding the wheel to the shaft. I don't think it made any improvement, as there wasn't that much wheel-to-shaft play to begin with. The biggest problem is the fact that the rear 'bushing' (where the pot is) doesn't really provide any support for the shaft. The shaft is held almost entirely by the front bushing, and thus some twisting (yaw & pitch) is inevitable. Any engineer knows that you don't position a shaft with just one bushing! --John Bradley
Larry 11 Feb 1999#449715
Hehe :) The only reason I haven't done mine yet is I haven't figured out how get around the switch wires to remove the wheel completely. -Larry > Great stuff mate , thanks. I've just added "Bachelor of Engineering" > to my resume....|o)
Larry 11 Feb 1999#449716
It takes 3 to make a difference. Tri-pod arrangement. -Larry > Actually, I modified my TM2 to have a second***holding the wheel to > the shaft. I don't think it made any improvement, as there wasn't that > much wheel-to-shaft play to begin with. The biggest problem is the fact > that the rear 'bushing' (where the pot is) doesn't really provide any > support for the shaft. The shaft is held almost entirely by the front > bushing, and thus some twisting (yaw & pitch) is inevitable.

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