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Thrustmaster Ferrari F1 Force Calibration Problem

7 posts by 3 people · 18 Feb 2003 10:18 UTC - 18 Feb 2003 19:06 UTC

Rob Gerwald 18 Feb 2003 10:18 UTC#75797
I am testing a Ferrari F1 Force Wheel and Pedals from Thrustmaster. I am running Windows XP Home and the brake does not calibrate correctly. The Thrustmaster solution is to remove the Thrustmapper Software and calibrate the wheel manually. The manual drivers do not allow for a split pedal axis so I am reduced to running a new FF wheel with single axis !! To me, this is unacceptable. Has anyone found a solution to this problem or do I take the wheel back ?? Thanks in advance.
Hi Rob, I had exactly the same problem when I bought mine about a month ago. The Thrustmaster solution to remove the Thrustmapper software and load the new driver is totally unacceptable as it doesnt let you set any force feedback settings or run split axis. I have spoken to Thrustmaster tech support in Canada (I'm in the UK), and his suggestion was to remove the botton of the pedals and adjust the pot a bit. This did not work. I emailed their support people on Jan 17th about the fact that the new driver does not give any control over the FFB effects etc and got no reply back until Feb 6th. Even then it didn't actually answer my questions, instead it just gave me a returns procedure. I dxid manage to get over the brake problem by using the DXTweak utility (from logitech). However I also could not get the wheel to work correctly with GPL although it was brilliant with F1 2002. Just one other thing that I noticed was that I had a large FPS drop in F1 2002 over my old non FFB wheel but I didn't know if this was to be expected or not. In view of the problems with GPL, the brake problem and annoyance at their technical support and driver issues I decided to take the wheel back to PC World where I bought it and change it for a Logitech MOMO Force wheel. While, ergonomically, I still prefer the Thrustmaster wheel (let's face it, it does look the part), the MOMO is just so much better. My FPS has gone back up to where they were before (which would tend to indicate that the driver software is more efficient and not draining system resources), the Logitech support web site gives much more information and help (they give individual setup advice for just about every game available). I think the two wheels are comparable in build quality. It is quite possible that Thrustmaster will bring out new drivers that will solve all the issues, in fact this is what I asked about in my email to them. However, there was no mention of this in their reply and I couldn't wait for something that may never happen. Sorry this has been a long reply but I thought I'd give you all the info Regards Russell "Rob Gerwald" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:4Mn4a.17952$[email hidden]... > I am testing a Ferrari F1 Force Wheel and Pedals from Thrustmaster. I am > running Windows XP Home and the brake does not calibrate correctly. The > Thrustmaster solution is to remove the Thrustmapper Software and calibrate > the wheel manually. The manual drivers do not allow for a split pedal axis > so I am reduced to running a new FF wheel with single axis !! To me, thisis > unacceptable. Has anyone found a solution to this problem or do I take the > wheel back ?? > > Thanks in advance. > >
Thanks Russell, I really appreciate you taking the time to reply. I have tried a few things since posting and now have a new problem ... not entirely new but I didn't mention it before .. :-) I have fiddled with the sensitivity and got the brake to calibrate in Thrustmapper but now my throttle works like it is digital. I can't feed the power on ... it just jumps to full or nothing at all !! This is really frustrating. As you said mate .. it does look the part. Oh well .... I 'll keep trying. Rob "Russell Spearing" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:b2t606$ktj$[email hidden]...
Quoted text (8 lines)> Hi Rob, > > I had exactly the same problem when I bought mine about a month ago. The > Thrustmaster solution to remove the Thrustmapper software and load the new > driver is totally unacceptable as it doesnt let you set any force feedback > settings or run split axis. I have spoken to Thrustmaster tech support in > Canada (I'm in the UK), and his suggestion was to remove the botton of the > pedals and adjust the pot a bit. This did not work. I emailed their
support
Quoted text (8 lines)> people on Jan 17th about the fact that the new driver does not give any > control over the FFB effects etc and got no reply back until Feb 6th. Even > then it didn't actually answer my questions, instead it just gave me a > returns procedure. > > I dxid manage to get over the brake problem by using the DXTweak utility > (from logitech). However I also could not get the wheel to work correctly > with GPL although it was brilliant with F1 2002. Just one other thing that
I > noticed was that I had a large FPS drop in F1 2002 over my old non FFBwheel > but I didn't know if this was to be expected or not. > > In view of the problems with GPL, the brake problem and annoyance at their > technical support and driver issues I decided to take the wheel back to PC > World where I bought it and change it for a Logitech MOMO Force wheel. > While, ergonomically, I still prefer the Thrustmaster wheel (let's faceit,
Quoted text (8 lines)> it does look the part), the MOMO is just so much better. My FPS has gone > back up to where they were before (which would tend to indicate that the > driver software is more efficient and not draining system resources), the > Logitech support web site gives much more information and help (they give > individual setup advice for just about every game available). I think the > two wheels are comparable in build quality. > > It is quite possible that Thrustmaster will bring out new drivers that
will
Quoted text (17 lines)> solve all the issues, in fact this is what I asked about in my email to > them. However, there was no mention of this in their reply and I couldn't > wait for something that may never happen. > > Sorry this has been a long reply but I thought I'd give you all the info > > Regards > > Russell > > > > "Rob Gerwald" <[email hidden]> wrote in message > news:4Mn4a.17952$[email hidden]... > > I am testing a Ferrari F1 Force Wheel and Pedals from Thrustmaster. I am > > running Windows XP Home and the brake does not calibrate correctly. The > > Thrustmaster solution is to remove the Thrustmapper Software and
calibrate > > the wheel manually. The manual drivers do not allow for a split pedalaxis > > so I am reduced to running a new FF wheel with single axis !! To me,this > is > > unacceptable. Has anyone found a solution to this problem or do I takethe
Quoted text (7 lines)> > wheel back ?? > > > > Thanks in advance. > > > > > >
Hi again, The problem you are getting is because of the deadzone setting in DirectX in conjunction with split axis. What you need is DXTweak2 which lets you alter the deadzone setting. However, I have read that there is a bug in DirectX on XP that doesn't allow you to save the deadzone setting. You can get it here http://www.wingmanteam.com/latest_software/gadgets.htm When you launch DXTweak2 you will have a window that shows all the axis with their RAW & Directinput values. on the right side you can select the tabs for each axis and there is a deadzone setting. Just set this to 0 for Accelerator and brake and you should be ok. I know that I had exactly the same issue (before I took the wheel back) and I did solve it using this method. However, I am running Win2000 & Win 98SE. Let me know if I can be of any more assistance Russell "Rob Gerwald" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:Wfp4a.18118$[email hidden]...
Quoted text (9 lines)> Thanks Russell, > > I really appreciate you taking the time to reply. > > I have tried a few things since posting and now have a new problem ... not > entirely new but I didn't mention it before .. :-) > > I have fiddled with the sensitivity and got the brake to calibrate in > Thrustmapper but now my throttle works like it is digital. I can't feed
the
Quoted text (13 lines)> power on ... it just jumps to full or nothing at all !! This is really > frustrating. As you said mate .. it does look the part. > > Oh well .... I 'll keep trying. > > Rob > > "Russell Spearing" <[email hidden]> wrote in message > news:b2t606$ktj$[email hidden]... > > Hi Rob, > > > > I had exactly the same problem when I bought mine about a month ago. The > > Thrustmaster solution to remove the Thrustmapper software and load the
new > > driver is totally unacceptable as it doesnt let you set any forcefeedback > > settings or run split axis. I have spoken to Thrustmaster tech supportin > > Canada (I'm in the UK), and his suggestion was to remove the botton ofthe > > pedals and adjust the pot a bit. This did not work. I emailed their > support > > people on Jan 17th about the fact that the new driver does not give any > > control over the FFB effects etc and got no reply back until Feb 6th.Even > > then it didn't actually answer my questions, instead it just gave me a > > returns procedure. > > > > I dxid manage to get over the brake problem by using the DXTweak utility > > (from logitech). However I also could not get the wheel to workcorrectly > > with GPL although it was brilliant with F1 2002. Just one other thingthat > I > > noticed was that I had a large FPS drop in F1 2002 over my old non FFB > wheel > > but I didn't know if this was to be expected or not. > > > > In view of the problems with GPL, the brake problem and annoyance attheir > > technical support and driver issues I decided to take the wheel back toPC > > World where I bought it and change it for a Logitech MOMO Force wheel. > > While, ergonomically, I still prefer the Thrustmaster wheel (let's face > it, > > it does look the part), the MOMO is just so much better. My FPS has gone > > back up to where they were before (which would tend to indicate that the > > driver software is more efficient and not draining system resources),the > > Logitech support web site gives much more information and help (theygive > > individual setup advice for just about every game available). I thinkthe > > two wheels are comparable in build quality. > > > > It is quite possible that Thrustmaster will bring out new drivers that > will > > solve all the issues, in fact this is what I asked about in my email to > > them. However, there was no mention of this in their reply and Icouldn't
Quoted text (13 lines)> > wait for something that may never happen. > > > > Sorry this has been a long reply but I thought I'd give you all the info > > > > Regards > > > > Russell > > > > > > > > "Rob Gerwald" <[email hidden]> wrote in message > > news:4Mn4a.17952$[email hidden]... > > > I am testing a Ferrari F1 Force Wheel and Pedals from Thrustmaster. I
am > > > running Windows XP Home and the brake does not calibrate correctly.The
Quoted text (18 lines)> > > Thrustmaster solution is to remove the Thrustmapper Software and > calibrate > > > the wheel manually. The manual drivers do not allow for a split pedal > axis > > > so I am reduced to running a new FF wheel with single axis !! To me, > this > > is > > > unacceptable. Has anyone found a solution to this problem or do I take > the > > > wheel back ?? > > > > > > Thanks in advance. > > > > > > > > > > > >
The main problem there is that DXTweak only sees the raw device and therefore doesn't acknowledge the split axis !! "Russell Spearing" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:b2t9lj$qco$[email hidden]... > Hi again, > > The problem you are getting is because of the deadzone setting in DirectXin > conjunction with split axis. What you need is DXTweak2 which lets youalter > the deadzone setting. However, I have read that there is a bug in DirectXon > XP that doesn't allow you to save the deadzone setting. You can get ithere > http://www.wingmanteam.com/latest_software/gadgets.htm > > When you launch DXTweak2 you will have a window that shows all the axiswith > their RAW & Directinput values. on the right side you can select the tabs > for each axis and there is a deadzone setting. Just set this to 0 for > Accelerator and brake and you should be ok. > > I know that I had exactly the same issue (before I took the wheel back)and > I did solve it using this method. However, I am running Win2000 & Win98SE.
Quoted text (12 lines)> > Let me know if I can be of any more assistance > > Russell > > "Rob Gerwald" <[email hidden]> wrote in message > news:Wfp4a.18118$[email hidden]... > > Thanks Russell, > > > > I really appreciate you taking the time to reply. > > > > I have tried a few things since posting and now have a new problem ...
not
Quoted text (17 lines)> > entirely new but I didn't mention it before .. :-) > > > > I have fiddled with the sensitivity and got the brake to calibrate in > > Thrustmapper but now my throttle works like it is digital. I can't feed > the > > power on ... it just jumps to full or nothing at all !! This is really > > frustrating. As you said mate .. it does look the part. > > > > Oh well .... I 'll keep trying. > > > > Rob > > > > "Russell Spearing" <[email hidden]> wrote in message > > news:b2t606$ktj$[email hidden]... > > > Hi Rob, > > > > > > I had exactly the same problem when I bought mine about a month ago.
The
Quoted text (11 lines)> > > Thrustmaster solution to remove the Thrustmapper software and load the > new > > > driver is totally unacceptable as it doesnt let you set any force > feedback > > > settings or run split axis. I have spoken to Thrustmaster tech support > in > > > Canada (I'm in the UK), and his suggestion was to remove the botton of > the > > > pedals and adjust the pot a bit. This did not work. I emailed their > > support > > > people on Jan 17th about the fact that the new driver does not give
any > > > control over the FFB effects etc and got no reply back until Feb 6th. > Even > > > then it didn't actually answer my questions, instead it just gave me a > > > returns procedure. > > > > > > I dxid manage to get over the brake problem by using the DXTweakutility
Quoted text (12 lines)> > > (from logitech). However I also could not get the wheel to work > correctly > > > with GPL although it was brilliant with F1 2002. Just one other thing > that > > I > > > noticed was that I had a large FPS drop in F1 2002 over my old non FFB > > wheel > > > but I didn't know if this was to be expected or not. > > > > > > In view of the problems with GPL, the brake problem and annoyance at > their > > > technical support and driver issues I decided to take the wheel back
to > PC > > > World where I bought it and change it for a Logitech MOMO Force wheel. > > > While, ergonomically, I still prefer the Thrustmaster wheel (let'sface > > it, > > > it does look the part), the MOMO is just so much better. My FPS hasgone > > > back up to where they were before (which would tend to indicate thatthe
Quoted text (11 lines)> > > driver software is more efficient and not draining system resources), > the > > > Logitech support web site gives much more information and help (they > give > > > individual setup advice for just about every game available). I think > the > > > two wheels are comparable in build quality. > > > > > > It is quite possible that Thrustmaster will bring out new drivers that > > will > > > solve all the issues, in fact this is what I asked about in my email
to > > > them. However, there was no mention of this in their reply and I > couldn't > > > wait for something that may never happen. > > > > > > Sorry this has been a long reply but I thought I'd give you all theinfo
Quoted text (10 lines)> > > > > > Regards > > > > > > Russell > > > > > > > > > > > > "Rob Gerwald" <[email hidden]> wrote in message > > > news:4Mn4a.17952$[email hidden]... > > > > I am testing a Ferrari F1 Force Wheel and Pedals from Thrustmaster.
I > am > > > > running Windows XP Home and the brake does not calibrate correctly. > The > > > > Thrustmaster solution is to remove the Thrustmapper Software and > > calibrate > > > > the wheel manually. The manual drivers do not allow for a splitpedal > > axis > > > > so I am reduced to running a new FF wheel with single axis !! To me, > > this > > > is > > > > unacceptable. Has anyone found a solution to this problem or do Itake
Quoted text (12 lines)> > the > > > > wheel back ?? > > > > > > > > Thanks in advance. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >
After a bit of playing with Thrustmapper and the sensitivity settings, I was able to solve all the issues. I deleted my existing game profile and started from scratch and it worked. I downloaded DXTweak but didn't end up needing it. Thanks again for your input Russell !! It is time to do some laps !!! Hmmm ... 1:00am ... Maybe tomorrow !!! "Russell Spearing" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:b2t9lj$qco$[email hidden]... > Hi again, > > The problem you are getting is because of the deadzone setting in DirectXin > conjunction with split axis. What you need is DXTweak2 which lets youalter > the deadzone setting. However, I have read that there is a bug in DirectXon > XP that doesn't allow you to save the deadzone setting. You can get ithere > http://www.wingmanteam.com/latest_software/gadgets.htm > > When you launch DXTweak2 you will have a window that shows all the axiswith > their RAW & Directinput values. on the right side you can select the tabs > for each axis and there is a deadzone setting. Just set this to 0 for > Accelerator and brake and you should be ok. > > I know that I had exactly the same issue (before I took the wheel back)and > I did solve it using this method. However, I am running Win2000 & Win98SE.
Quoted text (12 lines)> > Let me know if I can be of any more assistance > > Russell > > "Rob Gerwald" <[email hidden]> wrote in message > news:Wfp4a.18118$[email hidden]... > > Thanks Russell, > > > > I really appreciate you taking the time to reply. > > > > I have tried a few things since posting and now have a new problem ...
not
Quoted text (17 lines)> > entirely new but I didn't mention it before .. :-) > > > > I have fiddled with the sensitivity and got the brake to calibrate in > > Thrustmapper but now my throttle works like it is digital. I can't feed > the > > power on ... it just jumps to full or nothing at all !! This is really > > frustrating. As you said mate .. it does look the part. > > > > Oh well .... I 'll keep trying. > > > > Rob > > > > "Russell Spearing" <[email hidden]> wrote in message > > news:b2t606$ktj$[email hidden]... > > > Hi Rob, > > > > > > I had exactly the same problem when I bought mine about a month ago.
The
Quoted text (11 lines)> > > Thrustmaster solution to remove the Thrustmapper software and load the > new > > > driver is totally unacceptable as it doesnt let you set any force > feedback > > > settings or run split axis. I have spoken to Thrustmaster tech support > in > > > Canada (I'm in the UK), and his suggestion was to remove the botton of > the > > > pedals and adjust the pot a bit. This did not work. I emailed their > > support > > > people on Jan 17th about the fact that the new driver does not give
any > > > control over the FFB effects etc and got no reply back until Feb 6th. > Even > > > then it didn't actually answer my questions, instead it just gave me a > > > returns procedure. > > > > > > I dxid manage to get over the brake problem by using the DXTweakutility
Quoted text (12 lines)> > > (from logitech). However I also could not get the wheel to work > correctly > > > with GPL although it was brilliant with F1 2002. Just one other thing > that > > I > > > noticed was that I had a large FPS drop in F1 2002 over my old non FFB > > wheel > > > but I didn't know if this was to be expected or not. > > > > > > In view of the problems with GPL, the brake problem and annoyance at > their > > > technical support and driver issues I decided to take the wheel back
to > PC > > > World where I bought it and change it for a Logitech MOMO Force wheel. > > > While, ergonomically, I still prefer the Thrustmaster wheel (let'sface > > it, > > > it does look the part), the MOMO is just so much better. My FPS hasgone > > > back up to where they were before (which would tend to indicate thatthe
Quoted text (11 lines)> > > driver software is more efficient and not draining system resources), > the > > > Logitech support web site gives much more information and help (they > give > > > individual setup advice for just about every game available). I think > the > > > two wheels are comparable in build quality. > > > > > > It is quite possible that Thrustmaster will bring out new drivers that > > will > > > solve all the issues, in fact this is what I asked about in my email
to > > > them. However, there was no mention of this in their reply and I > couldn't > > > wait for something that may never happen. > > > > > > Sorry this has been a long reply but I thought I'd give you all theinfo
Quoted text (10 lines)> > > > > > Regards > > > > > > Russell > > > > > > > > > > > > "Rob Gerwald" <[email hidden]> wrote in message > > > news:4Mn4a.17952$[email hidden]... > > > > I am testing a Ferrari F1 Force Wheel and Pedals from Thrustmaster.
I > am > > > > running Windows XP Home and the brake does not calibrate correctly. > The > > > > Thrustmaster solution is to remove the Thrustmapper Software and > > calibrate > > > > the wheel manually. The manual drivers do not allow for a splitpedal > > axis > > > > so I am reduced to running a new FF wheel with single axis !! To me, > > this > > > is > > > > unacceptable. Has anyone found a solution to this problem or do Itake
Quoted text (12 lines)> > the > > > > wheel back ?? > > > > > > > > Thanks in advance. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >
Rob, I believe I had similar calibration problems in my non-FF Thrustmaster PD2 pedals (Jeez I hate auto-calibration!) due to flex in the structure which was causing the gears to jump a tooth. Very frustrating. I tried many things but then decided to re-wire an old set of pedals which were very stable and responsive. The re-wiring surprised me that the PD2 software only used about 0-30 K-ohm, so my alternative 100 K pots were giving full throttle at only ~30% of the travel. Very difficult to drive. Again, I tried some software, but I was only able to change response within the 30% travel, not extend it. So I grafted in the PD2 pots in parallel to the pots I was using and drilled holes into the sides of the pedal base and stuck the ends of the secondary pots through the side. Now I can manually adjust the pedals as desired in spite of the stupid auto-calibration. So to answer your question, I think you can add secondary pots to your system to use for manual calibration. It should only cost a couple of bucks to try and you can easily remove it if you're not happpy with the result. Hope this helps, Ray

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