MOMO racing owners ?

Just got the momo racing wheel from justdeals.com (2nd version) and the accelerator pedal feels much softer than the brake pedal. Is this normal for this wheel? thanks dan

> Just got the momo racing wheel from justdeals.com (2nd version) and the > accelerator pedal feels much softer than the brake pedal. Is this normalfor > this wheel? From what I've heard, yes. Isn't that how it should be?

In case some of ya Momo guys (a mispelling their wouldnt be good) missed this from an earlier post. I dont recall the name of the guy that wrote it to give credit to him. At first I didn't like it compared to my GTR2k2 settings but after using this for a week now in NR2003 I think it's about right if you don't want notches and oscillations. I don't use the stock pedals so can't comment on them. >For the MOMO people, do this. Start/Settings/Control Panel/Game Controllers. Then.. Double Left Click on the MOMO, then click the Settings button (bottom right). Then set these options... Combined - unticked (ie: no checkmark) [this allows your brake and gas pedals to be on a separate axis, which is important to have] Enable Force Feedback - ticked (ie: checkmark it) [this allows force feedback in games duh] Overall Effects Strength - 97% [the reason for 97% and NOT 100% is a long and complicated explanation, but in short it helps oscillations from happening] Spring Effects Strength - 0% [no Papyrus sims use this setting and oddly enough, if you set it to anything other than 0% you will get undesirable effects] Damper Effects Strength - 0% [very VERY important to set this to 0%, this is probably THE most important setting, as it will greatly increase notchiness and wheel twitches, even though the Papyrus sims do not exactly enable it] Enable Centering Spring - ticked [you are going to find this strange, because in the next setting I tell you to set it to 0%, which is odd because why not just untick it? well, there's a reason and here it is... if you don't tick this option and also don't have Damping set -which if your going with these settings you won't- then a strange phenomenon happens, you will find that if you turn your wheel rather sharply, the resistance of the wheel just "gives out" which is not something you want to happen. I will also admit that having this unchecked does appear to give slightly better forces -SLIGHTLY- but the repercussions just aren't worth it for the payoff. so in the end check this option] Centering Spring Strength - 0% [this is IMPORTANT! i know it's weird, but you must set it to 0% - read above option for better explanation] Then in your Logitech Wingman Profiler, create a Nascar 2003 profile and then set these settings as follows... Steering Wheel Sensitivity to 33% [the reason you want to go down from the default 50% to 33% is because at 50% the wheel is too sensitive to tiny wheel adjustments... which is not realistic. drive your car and notice how far you have to turn your wheel... the MOMO have a large radius to turn, it's a shame most people only move it 5 degrees to either side. this setting should allow more precise driving and overall smoothness as well - and you can go down even lower if you wish, to say, 25% if you want to have even more movement, but i suggest 33% for starters at least, get used to that and go more later if you like the effect] Steering Wheel Dead Zone - 2% [another long explanation would be needed and I don't feel like telling, but in short this also helps oscillations and twitchiness] Accelerator Sensitivity - 55% [strangely, this option is the exact opposite of the Steering, INCREASING this option from the default 50% to 55% makes the gas less sensitive to the immediate input, in other words, you have to push down farther before the car gets more power. the default 50% is a little touchy - when you barely touch the pedal the car can spin out. 55% helps this from happening and overall gives a more natural and fine tune approach] Accelerator Dead Zone - 2% [much the same reasoning as above, this helps from keeping your car getting to much gas too fast] Brake Sensitivity - 55% [exact same reasons as accelerator, increasing this to 55% helps your brakes from locking up to fast. one word of note though is that I have modified my brake pedal to include the squash ball instead of the spring, so that may make a difference in your setup. just note that increasing this gives less immediate braking and can help if your tires are locking up too easily under braking] Brake Dead Zone - 2% [same reasons as all the others dead zones] Now, in Nascar 2003, enable the Force Feedback option under the Controls tab and you should run this setting in between 35-65 (50 being most common setting) depending on the track and more importantly, on your setup for that track. I know this is a pain to have to do at each individual track, but depending on your setup you will need to adjust the strength of the forces in game between each track change. Just start out from 50 and work from there. the key to adjusting strength is this... if the wheel has a "notchy" feel, lower the setting till it JUST goes away, if it doesn't have a notchy feel, then raise it till you feel the notchyness and then lower it till it just goes away again. In essence giving you the most forces while remaining smooth. Leave Damping completely off in game... but *IF* and only if you are oscillating exiting a corner on the straight, then you can slightly and slowly increase it in game till you stop oscillating, but I doubt many of you will have oscillation problems because the settings we set up earlier should rid you of any. This is the only good thing Damping is good for, so try not to use it unless you have to because it hurts your performance elsewhere. and again, NEVER EVER EVER use the Damping setting in windows, the one found in the control panel... and only use the in-game damping if you absolutely must (as this can mask the real forces and it also increases notchiness by a factor of 3 fold). Leave latency off in game (0%). It only provides fake and incorrect forces at usually the wrong time anyways and can definitely get in the way of things and effect the overall impressions of the wheel with the rest of these settings described here. if you honestly feel like forces are literally coming too late (which I find very hard to believe) and you feel like you absolutely have to add to this setting, go ahead and increase it... with 25 being your absolute max (15 the preferred max) and 0% being the optimal. "Bamadano" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]... > Just got the momo racing wheel from justdeals.com (2nd version) and the > accelerator pedal feels much softer than the brake pedal. Is this normalfor > this wheel? > thanks > dan >

>From what I've heard, yes. Isn't that how it should be Yes but this difference in stiffness between the gas and brake is much more drastic than any I've owned before

Thanks Mitch. Does this apply to the Momo racing, the original Momo or both? I'll give the settings a try. After a couple of hours with NR2003 (finally came) and this wheel I can say it feels a lot more comfortable and much less notchy than my MSFF. Dan

"Mitch_A"

Quoted text (13 lines)

> > "Bamadano" <[email hidden]> wrote in message > news:[email hidden]... >> Just got the momo racing wheel from justdeals.com (2nd version) and >> the accelerator pedal feels much softer than the brake pedal. Is this >> normal > for >> this wheel? >> thanks >> dan >> > >

I tried them with the demo and it felt really odd. I had to turn the wheel almost full lock just change lanes...This was at Daytona...it just felt like too much travel was needed to make the smallest movement...but then once the car did react...it kept going..very BOAT-like. dave henrie

Sorry for OT questions. You said you bought 2nd version of this wheel. What is the difference between 1st and 2nd version? How can I identify the 2nd version? I ask these questions because I saw this wheel on sale in Futureshop and want to find what version is it. Thanks in advance, Igor. "Bamadano" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]... > Just got the momo racing wheel from justdeals.com (2nd version) and the > accelerator pedal feels much softer than the brake pedal. Is this normalfor > this wheel? > thanks > dan >

The Momo Force was the original. Better overall quality. The Momo racing has a shift knob and is more plastic. "Igor" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:W673a.687887$[email hidden]...

Quoted text (24 lines)

> Sorry for OT questions. > > You said you bought 2nd version of this wheel. > What is the difference between 1st and 2nd version? > How can I identify the 2nd version? > > I ask these questions because I saw this wheel on sale in Futureshop and > want to find what version is it. > > Thanks in advance, > Igor. > > > "Bamadano" <[email hidden]> wrote in message > news:[email hidden]... > > Just got the momo racing wheel from justdeals.com (2nd version) and the > > accelerator pedal feels much softer than the brake pedal. Is this normal > for > > this wheel? > > thanks > > dan > > > >

I have the Momo Racing (2nd) Dan. Bear in mind the forces are really weak but it has to be to remove the notchiness. If only I could get the feel in NR2003 more on par with the terrific feel of GTR2002 using this wheel. For whatever reason the Papy FF just feels wrong. Mitch "Bamadano" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]... > Thanks Mitch. Does this apply to the Momo racing, the original Momo orboth? > I'll give the settings a try. After a couple of hours with NR2003 (finally > came) and this wheel I can say it feels a lot more comfortable and muchless > notchy than my MSFF. > Dan