rec.autos.simulators

by **jason moy** » Wed, 28 Jan 2004 05:33:28

>Be sure to have engine braking also help the brakes. This makes a world
>of a difference for stopping in a shorter distance. Don't pop the gears
>down like an F1 car, but learn at which speed your gear rations have
>which rpm When doing that, if you notice the tires going "squeak, squeak,
>squeak" when you downshift, just give a little throttle to bring up the
>engine rpm (heal-toe downshift).

If you're talking N2003, the fastest way to brake is to downshift like
a modern F1 car. I've yet to damage an engine/gearbox in either the
cup/truck/pta physics by braking hard and immediately working down to
the gear I want to exit the upcoming corner in (actually, some corners
I downshift further than the gear I'm going to accelerate in to make
the engine braking stronger, then shift up before gassing it).

Jason

by **Larr** » Wed, 28 Jan 2004 06:11:04

I agree (damn, that's twice in one day LOL!).

The MS Wheel Pedals are the best _consumer_ grade pedals going.

-Larry

> On Mon, 26 Jan 2004 07:36:20 -0500, "MadDAWG"

> >I have no idea what type of wheel/pedal setup you have, but I just
ditched
> >my red MOMO for a MSFF, and it made a world of differance.

> I have a non-FF Sidewinder and the pedals are pure heaven. I went
> through half a dozen wheels before this one and I now own 2. Haven't
> seen anything in the past 4 years I'd trade them for.

> Jason

by **Dave Henri** » Wed, 28 Jan 2004 06:12:59

PMB2??? Whose are those?

dave henrie

by **Steve Smit** » Wed, 28 Jan 2004 06:22:47

Me too.

> >Be sure to have engine braking also help the brakes. This makes a world
> >of a difference for stopping in a shorter distance. Don't pop the gears
> >down like an F1 car, but learn at which speed your gear rations have
> >which rpm When doing that, if you notice the tires going "squeak, squeak,
> >squeak" when you downshift, just give a little throttle to bring up the
> >engine rpm (heal-toe downshift).

> If you're talking N2003, the fastest way to brake is to downshift like
> a modern F1 car. I've yet to damage an engine/gearbox in either the
> cup/truck/pta physics by braking hard and immediately working down to
> the gear I want to exit the upcoming corner in (actually, some corners
> I downshift further than the gear I'm going to accelerate in to make
> the engine braking stronger, then shift up before gassing it).

> Jason

by **Mitch_** » Wed, 28 Jan 2004 06:24:56

Steve was refering to Pressure modulated Braking in a previous post so I was
just being specific as to the name (and bragging cause I just purchased a
set hehe:). PMB2 For the ECCI 6000 pedals PMB for the 4000's.

by **Dave Henri** » Wed, 28 Jan 2004 07:04:29

So just like the old saying goes...If I had to ask, they are too much!!

dave henrie

by **Mitch_** » Wed, 28 Jan 2004 08:16:47

Not THAT much.

Base Price $259
PMB2 $79
SH $30
Total $358

I never used a decent clutch model in a sim yet with my Perf pedals so I
figurered no need for greater expense with these, though I do use it to look
behind in F1c/mods :)

The MAIN reason I went this route now is it was the only Momo compatible
unit left.at ECCI :-) All new production is going towards wheel/pedal units
so they say.

I figure Ill just do it in stages as Ive always done. The new BRD Speed7
wheel sounds mighty tasty too and I got a 40th knockin at my doorstep :)

Mitch

by **Shoc** » Wed, 28 Jan 2004 09:41:57

It is just something that you will have to get the feel for. I think it is
based on instincts. I am kinda caucious so my instincts tell me to brake
early. My tactic has been to brake 2 seconds later than I want to. Doing
that I am usually competitive in the leagues in which I race.

Shock

by **Haqsa** » Wed, 28 Jan 2004 10:03:38

I use a Momo Racing wheel and pedal set. The pedal pressure actually feels
pretty good, very progressive. Not sure how they compare to others but I
think they are probably better than the pedals that came with old red and
probably about comparable to the MSFF pedals. The only real problem I have
noticed that is definitely hardware related is that they are
autocalibrating, which means that if I don't remember to press them up and
down a few times before driving the range is usually way off.

by **Eldre** » Wed, 28 Jan 2004 14:15:51

>2 - I get punted by the trailing car. The excuse being, "You braked WAY too
>early!"

And, this just happened in a race last night at Silverstone(end of Hangar
Straight. Fortunately, the other driver was on the side of me instead of
behind me. I hit the brakes *later* than my normal braking point, and STILL
caught him unawares. He shot past me like I was standing still. Frustrating,
dammit...

Eldred
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by **Eldre** » Wed, 28 Jan 2004 14:15:51

> Also, being able to brake whilst turning in is crucial as well. This will
>make a huge difference to anyone not presently doing this. And, of course,
>the deeper the better.

For me, braking whilst turning usually results in me suddenly sliding backwards
towards an immovable object.

Eldred
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by **Eldre** » Wed, 28 Jan 2004 14:15:51

>I figure Ill just do it in stages as Ive always done. The new BRD Speed7
>wheel sounds mighty tasty too and I got a 40th knockin at my doorstep :)

Eh, you're just a KID...<g>
(40 in 2003)

Eldred
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by **Eldre** » Wed, 28 Jan 2004 14:15:52

>The way I compensate is to focus on line and exit speed to the exclusion of
>almost everything else. That is, not to get so desperate w. my braking
>efforts that I mess up the line (getting the car positioned for the exit)
>and thus mess up my exit speed.

I get killed with exit speed as well. They got me coming and going. If I slow
earlier(so as not be desperate), I just go through the corner slower. It
doesn't help exit speed at ALL.

Eldred
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by **Eldre** » Wed, 28 Jan 2004 14:15:52

>Absolutely, Dawg. My ECCI pedals were worth a second or two a lap almost
>anywhere in GPL, and the TSW pedals I use with my Logi MOMO wheel are
>likewise indispensible equipment. You can't *begin* to modulate threshold
>braking with the flimsy, short-throw plastic pedals that come with most
>wheels. Also, most third-party/aftermarket wheels allow you to very the
>pedal pressure (ECCI had a pneumatic device that allowed you to adjust for a
>*progressively* stiffer pedal), which is critical for dialing in the best
>*feel*.

>> > I also don't think it's equipment.

>> I have no idea what type of wheel/pedal setup you have, but I just ditched
>> my red MOMO for a MSFF, and it made a world of differance.

I don't think it's equipment either. But, I've never had the chance to drive
someone else's rig, and vice-versa. There may be something wrong in my setup
that would slap someone else in the face because it's so obvious. But with
nothing else to compare it to...

Eldred
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by **Ruud Dingeman** » Wed, 28 Jan 2004 14:38:53

> For me, braking whilst turning usually results in me suddenly sliding backwards
> towards an immovable object.

Well, the back is SUPPOSED to go and slide, so you got it at least HALF
right... <g>

I don't find it easy either, only use it here & there, but then I got
single-axis el-cheapo pedals. What did help though, was learning to use
the engine for braking (in GPL). Made slowing down a whole lot less
hectic...

Regards, Rudy
(GPLRank -21)